I have a vegetable garden in Midwestern Northern Illinois. It is organic, has raised beds, and I am using double digging techniques (actually bastard trenching), along with French Intensive concepts. I broke ground in December of 2009, and I hope that if you are a beginning or struggling gardener that this blog will be an encouragement to you.
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Saturday, January 26, 2013
When to plant and why hoop houses might not work well in the winter.
Spring has sprung or is about to spring in some parts of the U.S. and some are wondering about what is the best date to plant plants. Often time seed packets have suggested months and dates or certain vague timing related to frost averages. The true determining factor is soil temperature. All plants have temperature parameters in which they thrive. 50 degrees F. is a basic benchmark for plant growth. Below 50 degrees and above 32 degrees many plants can survive but will make very little active growth. To bring a little science into planting equations and less guess work, one needs to buy an inexpensive soil thermometer. You might have a meat thermometer with a probe in the kitchen already. Begin to monitor what is happening with your soil. As they begin to approach 50 your getting close. On the internet you can observe ten day weather forecasts. Begin to combine the highs and lows. When the soil temp hits 50 and the ten day forecast averages 50, put your plants in the ground. If the ten day forecast is "good" except it might show one night with a hard frost, watch out. Some plant varieties require 55 and some 60 degrees before they should be planted. Lima beans need 65 degrees to germinate. Where I live at this moment soil temperature is 26 degrees. Do a little research regarding the various varieties. This concept affects hoop houses as well. Even with auxiliary heat, surrounding soil temperatures outside can be 20-30 degrees. This cold soil mass surrounding the hoop house will migrate, perhaps three feet into the hoop house rendering the perimeter area unproductive. It probably is recommendable to dig a 2 to 3 foot trench on all 4 sides and put in vertically panels of insulation foam 2-3 inches thick around semi permanent structures to eliminate migration.
Friday, January 25, 2013
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
My 2013 seed starting hotbed.
I don't like starting seeds indoors, it takes up to much space, all
the lighting etc., problems with damping off, and memory's of children
filling cribs with plants and dirt during nap time. So I am working on
this years hotbed, in a different location and dimensions that last. I
made mine 4 feet deep last year which is too deep to reach in safely. So
this year it will be 36 inches deep. Also I bought some old screens today for
$15 that I will cover with two layers of plastic. Last year I used
glass windows. Some broke, and I thought they were dangerous. I only dug
2 feet deep last year, and I have gone 30 inches this year. The length
is 12 feet. I plan on using a squirrel cage fan for ventilation, and
perhaps a small auxiliary heater connected to a thermostat. I found on
the "net" a rather simple design for the frame.
Labels:
Cold Frame,
Hot Bed,
Hotbed,
Manure powered.,
Seed Starting
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
Home Made Hot Sauce
Labels:
Home made hot sauce,
Hot Oil,
Hot sauce
No Till Gardening
Labels:
Leaf mulch,
Moon and Stars watermelon,
No Till
Black eyed Susan Vine or Thunbergia
Labels:
Black Eyed Susan Vine,
Thunbergia.
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